It’s Top Thursday again. Today it’s about books about surfing, fiction and non-fiction. I prefer non-fiction. Let me know in the comments which surfing books you recommend.
- In Search of Captain Zero
This is spiritual. This is true, even if some of the writings can’t be checked. In search for his friend the author goes down south to Mexico and central America while running after his friend and running away from himself at the same time. The surfing stories combined with the drug trafficking stories make it an explosive read, you instantly want to follow him.
- Barbarian Days – A Surfing Life
Damn. That cover alone. What a surfer life. All true. So many great stories from surfing all the great places. Far from the fascination of ‘In Search of Captain Zero’ but his unique and colorful writing style just drags you in the world of William Finnegan and you can literally see with your own eyes the waves he surfed and the spots he saw, he once saw himself.
- Tapping the Source
This is fiction. Nonetheless, it transfers the vibe just perfectly. It’s a nice novel that soaks you into a world on its own. Full of surfing and being young.I don’t read fiction. This one is excluded.