Checking the waves – they look incredible.
I get hectic and excited as a child on Christmas. Preparing as fast as possible and rushing to the spot just to dive into the water…
I feel like a kid again. As an adult you don’t feel this excitement. You are numb.
This pleasure in the water…
There’s no money to earn. There’s nobody to impress. There’s no reason to do it. It’s pointless.
You just do it.
For yourself.
You feel ecstatic, you feel alive.
If you’ve never experienced this insane fire, this rush, you have no idea what a burning desire really feels like.
Go, find yours!